Day 191. Saturday, 8th March, 2025. From Hotel Cecilia in Asuncion to Hotel Tropicana in Paraguari, Paraguay. 44 Miles or 70 kms.

Hotel Cecilia

As we use Booking.com a lot, we had apparently earned enough points for an upgraded room. It called itself a suite. I wouldn’t really go as far as to call it a suite, but it was large, with an alcove area containing the fridge, lots of wardrobe and cupboard space and a king size bed. So, we were very comfortable. Dinner in the restaurant was quite an experience. It was very traditional, but we had nice steaks and very decadent chocolate volcanoes for desert.

This morning, while Dennis was finishing yesterday’s blog, I went up to the rooftop pool area to see the pool and the view. Unfortunately, check out time was at 11.00 so we didn’t have time to use the pool, although it looked very inviting. The view wasn’t very spectacular, but it did give me an idea of our location in terms of where the important buildings in the centre were located, as I could see the cathedral.

After a substantial breakfast we decided we would try and park Poki somewhere cool in the centre of the city and do a walking tour of the most important sights.

Asuncion Sights

We were lucky in finding a shady parking spot under trees in Plaza Constitucion, right opposite the Cathedral. Lonely Planet calls it unremarkable. We will agree with them.

Cabildo – Cultural Centre

Walking around the Plaza we came to the pink Cabildo. This building was once the centre of government. It’s now a cultural centre. Surrounded by railings it didn’t look open to the public, but a guard leaning on the railings said we could enter. Inside were four uninterested looking attendants. Talking amongst themselves and on their phones, they just said “It’s free” and beckoned us to go in.

We didn’t know what to expect, but it was actually interesting and very informative. Knowing little about Paraguay, we learned a lot. The first display related to the indigenous Guarani people. Seventeen ethnic groups belonging to five language groups inhabit Paraguay. On display were clothing, tools, weapons, pottery and a dug-out canoe. Very similar to a Māori waka (canoe).

The next room was devoted to Jose Asuncion Flores. He was Paraguay’s most outstanding composer and harpist. He invented the Guarania, a musical style that features haunting and melancholic melodies that encapsulate the Paraguayan identity.

We then entered a large gallery featuring art by local artists and also some sculptures.

The next display, unfortunately, only in Spanish, related to the various wars Paraguay has been involved in. There were many interesting photographs. This provoked me to do some research.

War of the Triple Alliance

In 1865 Brazil invaded Uruguay. Paraguay’s ruler, Francisco Solano Lopez, seduced by his European education, longed to be seen as the Napoleon of the Americas. Lopez jumped at the opportunity to prove his military genius by saving the small nation of Uruguay. To send his army to the rescue, permission was needed to cross Argentina. When this was refused he declared war on Argentina too. Brazil quickly overwhelmed Uruguay and Paraguay found itself simultaneously at war with three of its neighbours. This was known as the War of the Triple Alliance and changed the course of Paraguayan history forever.

The Paraguayans were outnumbered 10 to 1 by the allied forces and by the end of the campaign boys as young as 12 were fighting on the front lines, armed only with farm implements. Paraguay lost half its prewar population and 26% of its territory.

The Chaco War

The next war wasn’t too far away. In the early 1900’s Paraguay was in political turmoil. This gave the Bolivians the opportunity to advance into Paraguay’s Chaco region. Full scale hostilities erupted in 1932. The reasons are debated, but Bolivia desired a seaport (via the Rio Paraguay) and there were rumours of petroleum deposits in the area, which could have been a factor.

In the arid, scorching Chaco, access to water was the key to military success. Paraguay also benefitted from a British built railway line, which allowed them to bring supplies from Asuncion. The British warned Bolivia not to touch their railway, or else, further aiding Paraguay. As a result the Paraguayan troops were able to overcome the numerically stronger Bolivian forces. The futility of the war became obvious, leading to a cease-fire in 1935 with no clear victor, but more than 80,000 dead.

Immigration into Paraguay

The final exhibition detailed the number of immigrants who had entered Paraguay between 1855 and 2008. Which countries they had come from and where they had settled in Paraguay. The largest number were from Germany. There were also many Japanese and Mennonites from numerous countries.

Our next stop was the Panteon de los Heroes, supposedly Asunción’s most recognisable building. Two guards stood to attention in the blazing sun, with little shade, outside the entrance. We didn’t see it, but apparently there is a regular changing of the guard, with all the pomp and ceremony. The imposing building protects the remains of Francisco Solano Lopez and other key figures from Paraguay’s historical conflicts.

Interesting floor in Panteon de los Heros

Welcome relief

Sightseeing in 37 degrees was getting too much. We needed a break so headed to a cafe with dehumidifying fans to cool us down and large glasses of pineapple juice to revive us.

Palacio Lopez

Our final visit was to the grand pink Palacio Lopez, the seat of government. During the early years of independence you could be shot for simply looking at the exterior! These days, despite being the seat of government, security is rather more laid back. Although when Dennis started to walk in the gardens towards the palace, a policeman and armed military guard, soon told him to stop. Though he took no notice.

Leaving Asuncion

Returning to Poki we thought we would head out of the city, have some lunch and then find a hotel south of the city. The city centre is quite compact but getting through the suburbs was tedious. They seemed to go on forever. Not helped by constantly stopping for traffic lights. Traffic was heavy but Paraguayans, generally, are patient and considerate drivers. We only managed to cover 9 kms in an hour

Hotel Tropicana

Lunch was late. We didn’t find a sheltered stopping place until 2.30. We headed for the town of Paraguari. The first hotel we tried was no good, but we next tried the Tropicana, where we are now located. The plan after we checked in was for a swim in the pool. I had just changed into my swimming costume when the heavens opened. It carried on raining, so we abandoned the swimming pool idea.

When we arrived the hotel staff were preparing for some sort of a reception or party. I had forgotten to ask for the WiFi password, so when I went back for it the receptionist told me it was for a baby shower. Later we went and had dinner in Poki surrounded by all the guests cars. I’m not sure where we’re heading tomorrow, but all will be revealed in due course.

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