Another late start.
We didn’t leave the campsite until midday.
A very different day’s drive. Scenically we are in the mountains again, among thick pine forests. Now it is pretty much mid-summer so there is only snow on the highest peaks. It is a very different road to the flat, straight road through the Pampas. Undulating and winding, so progress is much slower.
Parts of our route today are also quite heavily populated. It is a very touristy area. A region of hiking and adventure tourism. Kayaking, rafting, cycling etc. As we approach Bariloche, there is nothing but tourist accommodation. Cabanas, hotels, and campsites everywhere. Traffic is heavy and progress is slow.
View at our lunch stopping place
Driving in Patagonia
Dennis mentioned yesterday that we had covered 1000 miles in 4 days. That may not seem much to motorway drivers, but driving here is a different story. All single track roads, some simply worn away and full of potholes and others gravel. Another factor is the unrelenting Patagonia wind. When it is catching us head on, on the nose, it is really noisy and that gets very tiring after several hours.
Paul and Fiona, we met them in Perito Moreno a couple of days ago, had advised us Bariloche was not a nice place. As we were approaching, I read on iOverlander that it is not safe for overlanders to stop for even 15 minutes. Even in crowded streets. Cars with foreign number plates are targeted and broken into, relieving you of your valuables.
We drove through Bariloche, only stopping to refuel. It certainly wasn’t a very attractive place and traffic was heavy.
Progressing north towards Villa La Angostura, the road skirts Lake Nahuel Huapi.
There are less campsites here and little space for wild camping. We stop at one campsite, but the price is 32,000 pesos. We say it is too expensive and the girl receptionist shugs her shoulders and says, that’s what you have to pay around here.
Driving on we decide to wild camp in a car park at the entrance to a hike. It is reasonably hidden from the road, although still quite close to it. There are 2 other cars parked there. We sit and check our emails for a while before setting up camp. A white utility truck comes into the car park and parks between the two other vehicles. It does not stay long.
Nasty Incident
We are in the process of putting up the Caranex when two young guys come over. The one car now left in the car park is theirs. They say it has been broken into. The lock has been broken with a screwdriver. They have lost a camera and money. The guy the camera belongs to is devastated, as it contained all his photographs for the last six months of his travels in South America. He is from Spain.
They ask us if we saw anything. Sadly we were not aware of anything untoward going on. We weren’t paying the other cars any attention. However, it now seemed suspicious that the white utility truck came and parked between the two vehicles and only stayed a few minutes. The other car left after this, with several passengers, but it seems more likely the white ute was the culprit.
After this incident, I didn’t want to stay camped there. Dennis said no one would break in while we were in the vehicle. I wasn’t happy, as I knew I would find it hard to sleep worrying about any intruders. So, we packed up the Caranex and drove to the next campsite. It cost 30,000 pesos, but I would rather be safe.
Camping Ragintuco
The camp is in a nice location being beside the lake, but it is absolutely packed. Heaving with campers, tents and people. As they are spread over a wide area, it is difficult to estimate how many. However, it is far too many for the only two showers and toilets per sex, which are available. They are also a good five minute walk from where we are camped. It’s also very dusty.
Sunset view from our campsite
Tomorrow we will continue north to San Martin de Los Andes. I fear camping there will be equally expensive. We need to stop somewhere, though, for a rest day and to catch up with laundry etc, again.
Another one for our birdwatchers to identify.
Views: 46
Looks like a southern lapwing
Thought it might be a Lapwing. X
Bugger about the break in to the car. Maybe a timely warning to have a safer place for valuables, oh, and taking out your sim cards if you have to leave camera etc. I presume you have money pouches or similar, maybe keep the cards in them. Good luck. One incident like that could ruin your whole trip. End of sermon.
Very true, Kelvin. I think we had become a bit complacent. It’s a wake up call. We’ll definitely be more careful in future.
Good point, removing SIM cards. J