Firstly, it’s cold, as it was last night. I didn’t get to check the thermometer, but I’m guessing it was around 4deg.
It’s now 8.30am and while porridge is cooking, I thought I would try and describe the beauty that greeted me when I opened the flap on the Caranex 30min ago.
It’s a blue sky day, and below it, grasses on the slopes opposite giving off a golden glow. We are surrounded by mountains. Our camp is on a marine terrace that is divided by a river we can’t see, and on the opposite side, smooth grassy slopes interrupted by craggy rocks. It’s breathtaking.
Heading off, but in the right direction?
Breakfast over and packed we were on the road by 10am. Foolishly I didn’t look at the sat-nav, thinking we just had to carry on down the valley we were camped in. Wrong!
After driving about 20k’s, some of it over freshly laid seal, but much of it over a very rough, rocky road, Jen looked on iOverlander and couldn’t find where we were. Then I looked at the sat-nav and noted our mileage intended for the day, had doubled!
Retracing our steps we headed for Colca Canyon. Our friend Alex sent us a travel article from the Sunday Times, of this lesser known canyon, rivaling the Grand Canyon in the US, but deeper. The magic item in the article for Jen, was that there were condors visible at certain times of the day. Mainly mornings.
Passing through Chivay, a sizeable, but rudimentary town, some shopping was done and photos taken.
I suspect some very early symbolic offering taking place. It didn’t stop the old lady wanting to be paid for having her photo taken.
During the morning I noticed a slight drop in Poki’s performance so removed the air filter thinking it was clogged with dust. However again, there were many insects. Which is surprising as the snorkel entry nozzle is facing backwards. Clearly it still sucks in passing insects, but very little dust, which is great. Performance improved. We are at 3800m.
Meeting some other overlander’s
Deciding to stop for lunch at around 1pm, we rounded a corner to see a green overlander’s TDi Defender parked just off the road. There have been very few overlanders seen so far, apart from groups of motorcycle tourists. Pulling in beside the Landy, we introduced ourselves to Emerson & Debora, from Brazil. Spending the next half hour or so chatting about their and our travels they parted to continue their journey north and we to make lunch. It’s a special time chatting with other travellers and even more so, if they drive a Land Rover. Emerson has done an amazing job of converting the vehicle to a mobile home.
We swapped contact information and hope we can catch up with them in their home town in northern Brazil.
Driving along at about 75kph we hit a speed bump that was obscured by the shade of nearby trees. Jeez I hate those things with a passion.
The drive to the canyon is through many valleys, Most of them showing the industry of earlier inhabitants. I mentioned in an previous blog that they were Mayan. However, on reflection I think, the Mayans were much further north. So without the benefit of wifi at the moment I can’t confirm their status. Inca, Aztec or. Here is the answer, thanks to anywhere.com :-
The Cabana and Collagua peoples, who lived here from 800 B.C. onward, were the original inhabitants of the Colca Valley. These people built impressive terraces that collected the snowmelt from surrounding volcanoes to help irrigate crops
Colca Canyon.
It’s 4pm and the car park for the viewing area we have chosen to camp in, is deserted. There are the most basic facilities, but it’s on the very edge of the canyon. We have a flatish site in a dust bowl, to erect the Caranex on. The wind from the side is strong, so I hope it subsides in the evening.
Our only companions for the evening, are 12 horses. One a quite newly born foal, still shaky on it’s legs. By tomorrow morning we will be swamped by tourist buses and independent travellers. The reason, the condors are looking for breakfast in the canyon. Not for tourists 🙂
The canyon itself is fascinating and impressive. Not the jaw dropping impressive of the Grand Canyon, but impressive still.
Ruins on the opposite side of the canyon. What would inspire you to live there? The lens at the limit of it’s range.
A statue. Will we see the real thing?
Jen has just let out a yell of delight, there is a solitary condor majestically soaring over the canyon. Too far away to photograph but a good omen for the morning?
An observation :
There have been several Paeje (toll) booths burned out and barriers gone. I suspect the population incensed at having to pay to use the roads..:)
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