Over breakfast I read Dennis’s daughter, Sarah’s, latest blog, written after they have completed 100 days. I am very impressed with Sarah’s attention to detail. She has recorded all their expenditure driving down from Whistler, through the a states and Central America to Panama and can break down average costs for camping etc, groceries, etc
In Central America they seem to have had some tough border crossings. One thing we have found about South America is how easy the border crossings have been. Some of the borders we have crossed have been tiny and in remote places and we have been the only people there. It will hopefully be easier from now on, Sarah.
Sarah also commented on meeting fewer overlanders than they had anticipated. We have found the same thing. In the north of the Continent in Colombia, Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia we did meet a few, mainly Europeans from Switzerland, France, The Netherlands and Germany. In Chile, especially on the Carretera Austral, we met many cyclists and motorcyclists. In Chile and Argentina there were many travellers from South American Countries. We have been in Brazil for almost a month now, but have met no other overlanders at all.
The Pantanal
After breakfast we set off for the Pantanal. The Pantanal is a natural region encompassing the world’s largest tropical wetland area and the world’s largest flooded grasslands. It is located mostly within the Brazilian state of Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do Sul, but also extends into Paraguay and Bolivia. It covers an area of between 140,000 and 195,000 km2.
Cuiaba
We stopped en route in the city of Cuiaba. It is the capital city and largest city in the state of Mato Grosso. Our reason for stopping was to change some money, as we were running out of Reals again. It seemed an affluent city. It is more or less joined to the neighbouring town of Varzea Grande. Founded in 1719 during the gold rush, it has been the state capital since 1818. The city is a trading centre for an extensive cattle-raising and agricultural area.
In Varzea Grande we turned south into the Pantanal. After the town of Pocone the road became a dirt road. It was pretty rough and rutted in places, as it had obviously rained not too long ago. I was quite disappointed to see the amount of farming going on. Cattle everywhere. I had expected it to be more wild. The breed of white Brazilian cattle is the Nelore breed. They are raised for beef, but they look very scrawny beasts to me, compared to Herefords or Angus.
Our destination was UeSo Pantanal Lodge. We were the only visitors. It is the rainy season, when animal viewing is more difficult. They are able to hide in the luxuriant vegetation and there is abundant water for them. In the dry season they are more easily visible against the brown background and come to watering holes for water.
It’s melty hot
It was very hot, 37 degrees when we arrived and shade was minimal. Mosquitoes were extremely abundant. After we had put up the tent a gentleman called Ian came over and introduced himself. He is a guide during the dry season. He said he would show us around the property. It was starting to get dark, so not the best time for photography.
An Agouti
Capybara family
Caiman
We did see an agouti, several families of capybara, a caiman and many birds. Four types of ibis, herons, a macaw, parakeets, wood peckers and many other species. Ian pointed out holes in the grass where he said tarantulas lived. (I encountered 2 large spiders in the shower the next morning. Remembering Ian said there were tarantulas about, they were quickly squashed with my shampoo bottle).
Piranah. Stuffed and on display in the lodge.
After our walk we returned to the lodge and had some beers with Ian. He advised us the lodge and farm is 700 hectares and is owned by a Swiss couple. They have a second farm of 2000 hectares nearby.
Returning to Poki it was still 32 degrees, even with our fan and air conditioner going. We decided not to cook, as this just makes Poki hotter. Dinner was a salad and some fruit. Sleeping was difficult it was just too hot. I let some insects inside our mosquito net when climbing in. There were so many it was impossible not to. Fortunately, they didn’t seem to be biting things.
Is there more to see?
Tomorrow we may or may not go further south to Porto Jofre. Apparently jaguars can be seen there, so I wanted to go for that reason. However, Ian said we would definitely see them in the dry season, but there would be a less than 30% chance of seeing one during the wet season. Porto Jofre is another 110 kms south. The weather forecast for the next week is for rain every day. Dennis doesn’t want to be driving in mud with Poki’s bald tyres. We will decide in the morning.
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