Terrible news!
As soon as turning the phone on this morning Jen had a message from Lilian and Rob saying they were robbed at knife point while trekking in the country, south of Baraloche, close to El Bolson. It seems a lone male held a knife at Lilian’s throat, demanding a phone and backpack. It seems while Rob was handing his phone, Lilian had the presence of mind to throw her phone in the bushes, to be retrieved later. She screamed and the attacker fled. We have occasionally considered ourselves as being prepared should we be attacked or robbed. How delusional!! Our thoughts and hope, that this experience won’t erase the countless wonderful memories you have enjoyed, go out to you Rob & Lilian!
Buenos Aires.
How appropriate for us to be staying on Fitz Roy, close to the corner of Guatemala. Evocative names for us.
Buenos Aries – population 15.370 million in the metropolitan area.
We have an apartment for three nights, so this morning, given a punishing schedule by Alex our London based friend, that doyen of good taste and fine living, to spend most of the day touring around the city and suburbs, on a Hop-on-Hop-off bus. It’s a brilliant way to get a feel for the place. US$35 each. First up we had to find our way to the tube station to get into the city centre. The hardest part of that was finding a subway entrance, a 10minute walk from our accommodation.
How can I describe the city without using superlatives. It’s sensational…there you go, I tried but couldn’t!..:)
Big wide boulevards, some 9 lanes wide in one direction. Countless spacious, usable parks. Stylish shopping precincts. Leafy residential areas. Historic monuments everywhere. Classical architecture, some on the grandest scale. I thought, while being driven along, this is somewhat reminiscent of Paris. It seems French architects were active in its design and construction. Like London, the old dockland areas have been re-purposed.
The city, it’s beautiful, in my opinion. Museums, art galleries, tented stall areas, historic shanty areas, passionate footballing stadiums.
There is even a monument to the Fallen in the Falklands/Malvinas war, which the commentator declared was Argentine sovereign territory.
The city seems to have been built, no, crafted, with little regard for space or economy.. No doubt the tour, 3+ hours long is designed to showcase the city but I think it would take years to really get to know it. In the whole tour we did not pass a warehouse or sign of industry, it’s obviously ‘somewhere else’.
The commentary on the bus was very interesting but prone to jumping forward as the next point of interest came in view, hence not to hear the full story.
Recoleta cemetery
It wasn’t till 4pm that we left the dramatic, macabre mausoleum complex that is Recoleta cemetary. Everyone who was anyone had to be buried here. Ostentation on steroids. Some tombs immaculately presented, others rusting, rotting, crumbling as successive generations die or lose interest. Jen would not leave till we had found Evita Peron’s resting place. What we had not factored in, was her maiden name was Duarte, and we were looking for Peron. She was only 33 when she died!
After walking around the site for perhaps 30min without sustenance or water since breakfast, and with a hernia giving me some grief, we sought a seat and refreshments in a bar nearby.
Finding our way back home.
Buying a Sube card which allows travel on bus and train made travel easy. The underground train network is vast and entertaining. Live music of all sorts on platforms and on the train. Hawkers selling trinkets of all sorts, put little bundles on the knees of sitters then come back minutes later hoping the recipient will have bonded with the item. Singers of all abilities belting out numbers accompanied by drum sets and speakers, seeking and often getting applause, but little else.
Walking back along Santa Fe, onto Humbolt, we decided to dine on the footpath tonight. A ‘Help yourself’ eatery provided a range of tasty foods served in a plastic bowl and given plastic utensils, paid for by weight of contents. What we didn’t appreciate was that the food was not at optimum temperature. Never-the-less it was tasty and inexpensive. Watching city inhabitants passing by, was a bonus. One lady, from a different era, complete with flowing dress and hair, in gumboots..:)
Photos are from Jen’s phones. I was too afraid of ridicule from Kelvin should I take the camera and loose it…:)
Poki was still patiently waiting for us on return, unmolested by souvenir hunters or city officials..
So ended a brilliant day. Jen has booked us a night of Tango excitement and drama which she will detail on the morrow.
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What an expedience, but at least they were unharmed. Not like the 2 aussie surfing brothers in Mexico who were killed for their tyres. I don’t know what you are doing to save your photo’s, but suggest you give it some thought as phones and cameras are attractive items. Photos are irreplaceable. End of sermon. What an amazing sounding city, I bet there is another side to it, equally fascinating.
Hi Bro, I haven’t looked over the balcony yet to see if Poki is still there but regardless, it’s been a visit the will not fade with time.
Our day yesterday equally as brilliant, that Jen is in the process of describing and posting soon.
Re photo’s, agree and have taken your advice. One of the many benefits of writing the blog, the photo’s and stories are recorded “in the cloud”. Just hope the cloud doesn’t burst..:)
The trick now is not to loose the little memory stick..:) I know, I’ll give it to Jen…:)