It’s time to move on. We have had an enjoyable, if not terribly productive rest day. I’d be quite happy to stay another day but Jen is anxious in case we don’t have time to get to Ushuaia in time, despite it being a two day drive and having 8 days to kill….:) She’s a worry wart.
Anyway, we are heading for a coastal camp site in the Monte Leon National Park.
The drive back from Puerto Santa Cruz to R3, is 27k’s and it’s with another 10k’s to the park reception area. Everyone has to register here before heading to the coast.
Surprisingly the registration office is staffed by 3 people and one can speak good enough, English. We are given a pamphlet describing the features of the park and it’s attractions. Penguin colonies, sea lions, birds of many sorts. They also have wifi, in the office only.
6 k’s down the R3 we turn left through and through a gate. In anticipation of a rough gravel road, I let the tyres down again. 25psi in the front and 35psi in the rear.
Monte Leon National Park.
Just as we turn into the park, it started to snow!!! The gravel road is treacherous. At one point Poki was sliding sideways towards a ditch. Our tyres are worn out. We put new ones on in Portland 45,000 miles and 5 years ago and it’s time for a new set, but we are hoping they will hold out till we get to Buenos Aires. Crisis averted. I took a little more care..:). The road has a black soil base and with recent rain and little traffic, the stone surface gets buried, and it’s treacherous. We have mud up the side of Poki after washing her yesterday!!! It’s thick on the mudflap’s, and sticky.
Do we risk a walk to view the penguin colony?
Pulling into the Penguin viewing area car park, we debate taking the 2.5k walk each way, to the colony. So we have lunch and await a change in the weather, ultimately deciding against the walk. Maybe it will be fine tomorrow and we can do it on the way out again?
Some park history.
Reaching the coast. The whole park was once a sheep farm, owned by the Braun family. My first thought on learning that, was they were probably Nazi escapees, but the farm was acquired in the 1920’s, so that ruled that hypothesis out…:) You’ll forgive my speculation, but when you see German names, the mind goes back to the late and post war years, when the Catholic Church ran a system called the ‘Rat Line’, and helped many infamous Nazi’s escape to Argentina. Mind you, the American’s also “acquired” many Nazi scientists for their own use. They also released several mafioso from prisons in the US, during the war and sent them back to Italy to “spirit away” priceless art work, but I digress…:)
Another few k’s on we come to the coast. It seems up until as late as the 1970’s, guano was harvested from an island, only a few metres from the shore. It’s an island that has been separated from the mainland through wave action. 10,000 tons of guano was taken from the island between the years 1930 and 1960 to fertilise the farm lands and gardens of Europeans and North Americans! But now, birds sit unmolested.
Setting up camp.
The camp area is well set up, with protective barriers installed to allow tents to be erected and not blown out to sea, or inland. We back into one and erect the Caranex. It’s wet from rain just before decamping this morning.
The sea is a turquoise colour. The coastline, rugged and inhospitable. To get an understanding of the area, I urge you to read The Wager, by David Grann, a sensational book about a shipwreck and the following privation suffered by the survivors.
It’s 3.15 and the sky is clearing somewhat, but it’s cold. It’s time to take a walk and discover our surroundings.
Walking down to the shoreline I’’m amazed by the structure of it. Above and around the shore, are three distinct strata. Above, heavily eroded, grey sedimentary soil. From the base of the cliffs to and below the high tide mark, the finest of pebbles. Then, hard, grey sand. Where did the pebbles come from?
The tide fall here must be huge. Thinking it was close to low tide we could see breakers breaking on submerged rocks well off shore. It’s 2 hours later and we can now clearly see those rocks, and more further out and down the coast. It’s no wonder ships founded here in the early days of sail.
There is little bird variety away from the island, that is inhabited by cormorants and gulls, Though there are small sparrow like birds. The male has a yellow marking on the side of its head. They are quite tame and forage close to our camp.
There is mention of Puma activity in the brochure and signs warning of it. “Keep your children close”, unless they are naughty..:) !!
The vegetation is interesting.
We were hoping to be alone but two more vehicles have just driven in. One with a single male in a Paraguay registered vehicle, the other, drove in, and out again.
hoping for a peaceful night.
The wind has dropped, the sun has come out again, but it’s likely to be temporary! It’s going to be a cold night.
After dinner, sitting in the driving compartment Jen is looking for Puma’s but all she see’s, is a mouse…:)
Views: 43
What price a diesel heater now? Friends have installed one on the roof and ducted it into the camper by flexible silver hose. Said it works a treat. Sounds like a new set of rubber before much longer. Stay warm.
Bought one before we left UK but weighing up installation and ducting, decided against it. We have a super warm bed, and down sleepingbags if we need them.
Re tyres, still have tread but not much. They should do another couple of thousand k’s. Lets hope there us no ice further down!
Dennis you are like me, we are not only getting old but are always full of confidence, may be time to listen to Jen and at least get on that next ferry before you start slowing down; it might also have a long waiting list? Cruise Boats wait for no one!
Remember daughters take their fathers because they know they need looking after, Keep up the good work Jen
Jeez Bob, it’s a myth. I’m not getting old, just changing appearance…:) Don;t you fall for it either! How about some support!!!
I tell Jen I’m her ‘sugar daddy’, but a bit light on the sugar..:)
Just remember, you be good to Pat..:)