Day 95. Sunday 1st December 2024. Hostel Patagonia & Camp Site. Chile Chico. Chile. to YPF Service Station. Las Heras. Argentina. miles 157 or 252k’s.

Yesterday, while photographing the Green or Blue lake, three males asked me where we came from. “New Zealand”, I said. The older one repeated it in Spanish to his younger protege’s. He then said to me in English, “Maori”. “Very impressive”, I said to him. He then went on to tell me they, the three, were indigenous to Chile. So I did a wee Haha impression and he smiled and was obviously aware. They were all from Chile Chico. The reason I mention it, is because most others who have expressed interest, have never heard of New Zealand..:)

Another great camp site. Modern showers and excellent facilities.

Camp accommodation..:)

On the road by 11am and it’s a few k’s to the border with Argentina. It only takes about 15min to complete the immigration and customs procedures, and on the way. A 3 ks drive to the Argentinian immigration and similarly, fast and efficient handling of documents. We had let our provision run down in fear of losing it crossing into Argentina. However, there was not even the briefest of inspections. The complete opposite to entering Chile.

Over the border


A few k’s to the first village, Los Antiguos, but everything is closed. It’s Sunday after all. While Jen is trying to source some money, unsuccessfully, from an ATM in the bank, then change some US $ at a currency trader, I re-inflate the tyres in anticipation of a sealed road. We then refuel, as towns are far apart and supply uncertain. We can’t find a shop to sell us a SIM card, so we will be at the mercy of restaurants to use their wifi, till tomorrow. There is a big modern looking supermarket, so we restock our food supply.

Route assistance.

Kelvin, in South Australia, and with the help of Google Earth, suggested we take the R43 instead of R40, which we were going to take. We decide on R43 as when we come back from Urshaia in a few weeks, we want to visit Mt Fitz Roy, a magnificent mountain, off R40, and don’t want to travel the same road twice, if not necessary.

R43.

This road is shown on the Chilean map as a Red, or sealed road. However, on the more recent Argentinian map, it’s depicted as Yellow, sealed or under construction. We decide that if it’s unsealed, we will revert to the R 40, but it’s a good, sealed road and we continue to Las Heras.

A change in scenery.

The eastern side of the Andes, and much of Argentina, in these parts, are vast flat expanses. The only view of mountains is in the rear vision mirror, in Chile, and getting further away. The ground we are driving over is clearly former moraine or glacial residue. The roads are straight and mainly flat. Vegetation is stubby, hardy grass and a flowering shrub with tiny pretty pink or white flowers. The wind is blowing fiercely from the east, behind us, and the sky is black and threatening. Traffic is light and Poki purrs contentedly.

Las Heras.

It’s 240k’s from Chile Chico and we arrive at 5.10pm and look for a camping site that is marked on the map but there is no mention of it on iOverlander. It’s clearly not operating anymore, if it was. So, we head for the next option, YPF service station. It’s where the trucks overnight. There is a big flat gravelly area behind the service station and we clear away the dog shit close to the wire fence, where there is some loose gravel and peg out the Carenex in the gravel base. It’ll be our home for the night. A police car has just driven through, so that is somewhat reassuring, because it does not look like being a particularly safe looking town.

Some repairs are needed to our Coleman petrol cooker. The hinges have been made out of cheese, obviously to improve shareholders returns, and over rough ground the whole base has collapsed. I had improvised by screwing a nylon strap to the wall, to support and take the pressure off the hinges. However, while it worked to a degree, the hinges have deformed and bent. So, I have drilled and screwed the hinges to the lid and wall behind, to which the lid is bolted.

Tomorrow we head for the east coast. We are at Lat. 46.5deg S.

Jen has cooked a great meal and it won’t be too long before retire for the night. Meantime we listen to music on the iPod and speaker. It’s bloody cold!!.

Sport.

Cricket.

England have given us a sharp rebuke, winning the first test by 8 wickets in a series of 3, in New Zealand. Dropped catches and poor batting on our part. However, great bowling by England was probably the main reason.

7’s Rugby.

Our 7’s team were ignominiously beaten by Spain, and Fiji. I believe the final was between Fiji and France. TBC. Great to see lesser rugby nations competing well at the top level.

The Australian women win the female version.

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2 Comments:

  1. That has got to be a first!! You taking my advice. Glad you did though, you know Murphy and his law. Relax and smell the fowers.

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