Day 86. Friday, 22nd November, 2024. From Eco Camping La Caletilla, Pichilemu to Camping Sin Ir Mas Lejos near Linares.

Leaving Pichilemu

Some days everything does smoothly, others don’t go so well. Today started with only cold water in the shower. Perhaps this should have been an omen.

Pichilemu is a laid-back, dusty, surfing town with a good vibe. I didn’t pay any attention to how the sat-nav had programmed our drive to Curico, for the morning. It started very well. We took a very pretty road down the coast. Different scenery to that we have experienced in most Chilean towns. Smart coffee shops and cafes and some really impressive, contemporary housing. Some built on elaborate stilts to take advantage of the best ocean views.

Forests and Vineyards

We continued on quiet, undulating country roads taking us through thick pine forests and never ending vineyards. I always thought of Chile as a white wine producing country. This area, however, seems to specialise in reds. The ones we have tasted so far have been very good!

I also always believed Chile to be one of the world’s top producing wine areas, but in terms of volume it only comes 7th. Italy, France, Spain, the US, China and Australia all produce more. (China surprised me).

In many ways the scenery has similarities to New Zealand. Pine forests in various degrees of growth, logging trucks on the roads and a yellow, lupin type weed which grows everywhere. Along the roadside there is also a pretty orange flower. Dennis thinks it looks like Montbretia, which has become a pernicious weed in NZ, but this is something different.

By late morning we were merrily trundling along when a sign announced the ‘pavement’ was ending. We thought it would just be a short break but we continued to progress on a rapidly deteriorating track. Twice we were met by closed gates. It was almost as if we were driving through private property, but I think they were just to keep animals in.

Our arrival time at Curico was originally 13.20. Once on this track this rapidly went back. At after 14.00 we decided to stop for lunch. There was no where to pull off the track, so we parked on a wider piece. No one passed during our lunch break, so, fortuitously, we weren’t sprayed with dust.

Curico

Eventually the asphalt reappeared, as quickly as it had ceased. The final part of our journey to Curico took us through acres of cherry orchards, olives, strawberries and vegetables. Onions, potatoes, cabbages and pumpkins. As well as vines. It is such a productive area.

Once in Curico, 2 hours later than anticipated, our first task was to refuel. We were opposite a large Entel shop so I thought it an ideal opportunity to recharge my phone. The rather pompous gentleman I spoke to said they didn’t do recharging. I would have to go to a supermarket. As the shop was full of phones for sale, I thought this was rather odd.

Before looking for a supermarket we went to find the Plaza de Armas. Lonely Planet rated this as one of the most beautiful squares. It was pretty with massive palms, flower gardens and a central fountain. I think we must be becoming a bit blasé, as all the central squares seem to be like this.

Attempt at Phone recharging

Finding a supermarket, I approached a cashier to recharge my phone. There was a problem. I didn’t know the number. It wasn’t written on the purchase packet or displayed on my phone. A nice young man who spoke good English tried to help, but the cashier said we didn’t have the correct number.

I went back to Poki for a paper clip to remove the SIMM to look at the number on it. Going back to the cashier she insisted this was still not the right number. By this time Dennis had come to help and 2 other young ladies also tried. However, the cashier was very unhelpful and we were getting nowhere. We gave up.

It was getting late, so we headed for Highway 5 and set off south to a campsite I had located 105k away. Fortunately, we could make fast progress, despite rush hour traffic. Highway 5 is tracking parallel with the mountains, so we have snow capped peaks to our left.

We passed a number of stalls selling strawberries. Pulling in to one, the owner came running up to us with two huge buckets! One is plenty we said. It probably weighs 2kgs and will keep us going for a week!

Camping Sin Ir Mas Lejos

It is getting lighter later at night and also warmer. By the time we reached the campsite it was 6.30. The owners were very welcoming, despite the fact that there was water everywhere and they seemed to be coping with a flood. Maria showed us a nice quiet place to park. Once again, we are the only campers. Maria assures me the water is hot, so I look forward to a hot shower tomorrow.

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