Leaving Puno
After breakfast and collecting 5 bags of washing and asking the hotel to move the car that was parked in front of us in the garage, we set off. Poki started pretty easily this morning. Getting out of Puno proved easier than getting in.
Once out of town we stopped to fill up with fuel before entering Bolivia. A full tank and 4 jerry cans. While refuelling it started to rumble with thunder. Once we were underway again the rain started. Driving parallel to the lake. Sometimes it was visible and on other occasions we were further inland and sometimes climbing.
Half way through the morning we descended a hill towards the lake. I thought it was salt, as it was white at the lakeside. As we approached the lake, we realised it was not salt, but snow! For just a few hundred meters there was a light covering of snow, even some on the road.
Crossing the border
Carrying on we came to the border town of Yungoyo. To be on the safe side, we filled a 7 litre, plastic bottle with more diesel. At the far side of the town was a tiny immigration office on one side of the road and customs, in a truck and trailer unit, on the opposite side.
Emerging from Poki we were asked to go to immigration first. There was no one else in the building, other than a bored looking customs officer. Within about 2 minutes we were photographed and stamped out of Peru.
Next we crossed the road to customs. A lady officer came and looked in and around Poki, then took our Temporary Import Document and stamped it as being cancelled. I took a photo so that we had a record of the cancellation, as she kept the document. The officers were all lovely. Fast, efficient and friendly.
We were now ready to cross into Bolivia. Before we reached the Bolivian border buildings, we stopped at a money change kiosk. I changed the 79 Peruvian soles we had left for just over 200 Bolivian Bolivianos.
I was worried about the Bolivian side, as according to the online information I had read, we were supposed to fill in an online form. I had managed to locate the form but couldn’t get it to fill in online. Also it was only in Spanish, so I gave up.
The customs officer advised us to go to immigration first. Again just one person ahead of us and within 2 minutes we were stamped into Bolivia. Back to customs and the officer filled in the necessary information on his computer and went with me to look at Poki. He was very impressed when he saw our map. A quick glance and back to the office.
He wanted proof we had checked out of Peru, so I was pleased to have photographed the cancelled form. In about 15 minutes we had a Temporary Import Permit for Bolivia and were on our way. Probably the quickest and easiest border crossing we have done. We haven’t had to pay anything for a TIP in South America. In Africa we paid everywhere.
Into Bolivia
There was a large police presence as we pulled away from the border, but they didn’t stop us. We soon passed a garage with a tanker on the forecourt. There was a small queue waiting to fill up, but not excessive.
Finding a nice spot overlooking the lake we stopped for lunch. Dennis likes Bolivia better than Peru already! As we were pulling away, after lunch, what should we see coming towards us but a light green Landrover Defender.
We both stopped and all got out to chat. It’s a German registered Landrover, driven by a lovely young couple, Damian and Sophia.
As they were coming from Bolivia heading to Peru, we obviously wanted to hear of their experiences regarding any issues with protests, road blocks, fuel problems etc. They advised there had been no issues, except it had been difficult to get diesel. There had been a considerable police presence though and they had been asked to stop and show their documents, but all the officers had been friendly.
We said our farewells and carried on. The scenery was beautiful. The lake is much prettier on this side. Deep blue with a range of ‘real’ Andean peaks ahead of us. A jagged snow capped line. We had been on a ridge looking at the lake on both sides, but we descended to the point where we had to get a ferry.
Not knowing what to expect, we thought we might have to wait for a ferry. However, there was a whole line of very basic looking barges. Seeing a bus bobbing about, very close to the water level on a departing barge, didn’t inspire much confidence.
Loading onto a barge full of locals of all ages, 2 more vehicles came on behind us. Off we set with the children, laughing at us and the locals opening bottles of beer and coke. A lady passed me a plastic cup of beer through Poki’s open window. It was more froth than beer.
When we came to disembark, she was in charge of collecting the money. The older lady and children all appeared to be family members. The barge owners, perhaps? She was asking for 100 Bolivianos. I had read it was between 40/60 depending on the size of your vehicle. I finished up paying her 70. Extra no doubt for taking their photos and the beer froth.
AIOverlander mentioned 3 places where people had previously wild camped. The first 2 were close to the road, but the third, where we are now camped, is off the main road on a dead end track. We are high up on ridge overlooking the lake with a fabulous view stretching to the snowy peaks. It is quiet and peaceful. Or it was. Once we started cooking dinner the wind picked up, causing unmerciful flapping of the tent. Then thunder and rain started.
Hopefully, the rain and wind won’t persist all night. It is quite chilly, as we are still high. I haven’t had the chance to buy a new SIM card, so tonight we are without wifi, I’m afraid. This won’t get posted until we reach La Paz tomorrow.
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