Day 61. Monday 28th October. Puno. Peru.

A rest day.

I hate doing it, but I took a sleeping pill last night. It worked..:)

Jen decided yesterday that we should visit some of the islands off Puno, and booked a tour.

So, after a modest breakfast in the hotel, we headed off the the port by taxi. A guide met us and marshaled the other arrivals and the 13 of us and guide boarded a launch for a 20min trip to another world. They were a diverse and great group. Four from India, two from Canada but originating in the UK 60 years ago!, two from Hungary, one from the UK and two Columbians.

Uros floating islands.

Lake Titicaca is approx 3200sq miles. With an average depth of 140-180m, though it’s deepest point is 280m. It has two countries bordering it. Peru and Bolivia. The lake is shared equally.

The tour for me was a eureka moment. It bought back memories of reading Thor Heyerdahl’s 1947 expeditition to the Pacific in an attempt to prove that the pacific Islanders had a South American heritage. Written up in his book, Kon-Tiki. If my memory serves me correctly, he came to Peru and Lake Titicaca to source reed materials, to build a raft for the voyage. The reed raft proved unsatisfactory through water absorption and he switched to balsa wood, obtained in the Amazon. This also proved unsatisfactory, but it got him and his 5 crew members to the Tumotua Islands, before becoming completely submerged. They were lucky to survive. The original idea of using reeds, was founded in ancient Egypt.

The tour of the islands

Our tour took us to the Uros Islands a short 20min. trip from Puno. There are a series of islands made entirely of reeds that grow in the lake bed, nearby. Approximately 200 islands with a combined population of 2500. Each Island has a 40 year lifespan and takes about two years to form. They are individually anchored to the seabed with 10 anchors. The Uros people originally lived in reed boats, similar to that pictured below. They built the boats to evade Inca expansion. Then converted to islands.

The reeds are also edible. Though have very little discernible taste.

The trip of course is of great benefit commercially, to the islanders. We were divided up into small groups and invited into a house where handicraft was displayed. The needlework is exquisite and one piece took Jens eye. A price of s200 was introduced. We countered with s150. No, s180. No. Goodbye. Whereupon the s150(NZ$61) was accepted and I think everyone was happy?

The piece on the left took Jen’s fancy. Now she has to find somewhere in Poki to store it..:)

A cruise on a reed boat between the two rows of islands pushed by an aluminium dingy with an ourboard motor, ensued. During which my thermal drink bottle went overboard and we watched it drift away!!!

The afternoon

By midday, we were back on the mainland and taken back to our individual hotels by Tuk-Tuk. Ours looked brand new. A GTR-Z, no less..:)

Short tour of Puno

It was a 10min walk to the city centre. All the Peruvian and in fact South American cities we have visited so far, have a central hub that house Justice departments, government buildings, and always a church or cathedral, and with a central point. Usually a statue of a historic figure, or fountain. Very Spanish. Puno with two squares and both neatly maintained. I suspect a responsible civil administration.

Puno the city, has a population of approx. 200,000. The Puno Province 1,200.000. For me, it’s the nicest city we have visited. Most of the cities have a beautiful city centre but are surrounded by decay, or overpopulation, and little planning or control.

This little tot having fun.

Hungry, we selected a restaurant not far from the main square and enjoyed a 3 course meal for s20 each or just over NZ$8.

By 5pm we are back at the hotel. Being on the 5th floor means climbing many steps and we are gasping by the time we reach our room.

Tomorrow we head for Bolivia 133k’s away. With some trepidation. Local unrest and diesel availability. We’ll be crossing with full tanks. Lets hope the trepidation is misplaced. Wifi may also be troublesome?

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