Day 54. Monday, 21st October, 2024. Visit to Machu Picchu.

After a hearty hotel breakfast, off we went to queue for a bus which would take us up to the citadel. Being advised to queue at 09.00, so that we would be at the gate for our 10.00 entry time, we set off a bit early at 08.35. Arriving at the end of the already lengthy queue, we were told there were two queues. One for entry at 09.00 and the other for 10.00, so we joined this second queue.

While waiting, we struck up a conversation with a group of Canadians. One in particular, Greg, was an avid traveller and had spent some time travelling in South America in his youth, having previously visited Machu Picchu in 1984. It has changed so much since then. If you’re reading, do keep in touch, Greg. Dennis’s daughter, Sarah and husband, Tim, have also visited before, in 2001. Again, I think they may be shocked how commercialised it has become.

An official guide approached us in the queue, asking if we would like to use his services. His price of US$100 was a bit too steep for us. It’s always more interesting to be given information, but this side trip has been quite expensive, so $100 was just too much.

Machu Picchu 

Machu Picchu is still not fully understood. The Spanish conquistadors never found it. Only the local Quechua people knew of its existence until American explorer and historian, Hiram Bingham,  was guided to it by locals in 1911. Bingham was actually searching for the last Inca stronghold, the city of Vilcabamba. He thought he had found it here at Machu Picchu. We now know these ruins are located deeper in the jungle at Espiritu Pampa.

Bingham returned in 1912 and 1915 to clear the site of thick forest, during which time he also came across some of the ruins on the Inca Trail. Machu Picchu is not an isolated city, but part of a huge complex.

There is speculation as to the city’s actual function. Was it founded in the waning years of the Incas to preserve Inca culture and maybe rekindle their dominance. Or, was it a royal retreat or country palace for Pachacutec and abandoned at the time of the Spanish invasion. Could it have been a political, religious or administrative centre. It was also an important agricultural location, as all the terracing points out. There is also a suggestion it was a trade nexus between Amazonia and the highlands. Let it remain mysterious.

Once on the bus, we wound up the dirt track. The corners all beautifully paved with stone to prevent erosion. The valley floor retreating further and further away. Towering mountains surrounding us. At the plateau entrance to the citadel everyone disembarked and made their way to different entry gates, depending on which circuit you were taking.

You had to keep to your allocated circuit. Signs, ropes and officials keeping you in line. Also signs telling you to keep moving. We were lucky it was a beautiful sunny morning, so we were seeing it at it’s finest. Is it worth it? Very definitely. It is stunningly magnificent. I would have, selfishly, preferred it without all the masses, but it’s understandable why everyone wants to visit.

A few photos from the many taken.

After completing our circuit and many, many photo shots later, we queue again for us bus back down to the village. It was clouding over and we had several hours to wait for our train back to  Ollantaytambo. Breakfast seemed a long time ago, so lunch was what we needed. Picking a smart looking restaurant, we made ourselves comfortable to pass the next hour or so. As we did so it started to rain hard. We felt lucky we had visited when we did.

Sustained by large hamburgers and fries, we headed for the undercover craft market, which was only next door. The station is located right next to the market. We decided to visit the ticket office and see if we could change to an earlier train. It was clearly pointed out to me in the small print on our ticket, that changes within 24 hours of departure were not permitted. If we wanted to change, we would have to buy new tickets! Surprise surprise. 

Back to Ollantaytambo

Once on the train we chugged slowly back to Ollantaytambo. Departing at 16.20, we were due back at 18.12. It gets dark by around 18.00, so I was concerned we would be walking back to the campsite in the dark. It is a beautiful ride closely meandering along the bank of the Urubamba river. The river bed is littered with rocks of all shapes and sizes and the fast slowing water cascades over and around them, bubbling its frothy way along. 

The sun was rapidly setting, catching the tops of some snowy peaks as it finally disappeared. It was dark by the time we pulled into Ollantaytambo. As our campsite is accessed via the backroad to the station, there is no street lighting and, as I anticipated, there were no waiting tuk-tuks. 

We managed to walk back along the dusty, unmade road in just 20 minutes, aided by the lights from another slow moving train and the occasional truck or car passing along beside us. Poki was patiently awaiting our return. The camp owner came to check and see who there. Finding us he was happy all was well and we had returned. Not feeling like a cooked dinner, a quick bowl of fruit sufficed. In bed by 20.30, we were soon fast asleep.

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