Leaving Zipaquira
After having breakfast in the car park, we were on the road at 09.00. The parking at Hotel Salinero was perfect. High enough for Poki to enter and under cover. The day started well. Unlike on other days when getting out of town proved a hassle, today we were almost immediately on a dual carriage way heading south towards Bogota.
Getting through Bogotá
There were two routes we could have taken. A slightly shorter route, but on smaller roads or the main autoroute south, via the centre of Bogota. We chose the latter. The reason being we had read of several travellers having problems on the shorter route with motor cycle scams. Motor cyclists stab your tyres when you are stopped at traffic lights. They then signal to you that you have a problem and offer to take you to a tyre repair place. Either you are robbed or fleeced when paying for the tyre repair.
We expected the route through Bogota to be busy, but to move reasonably well, as it is a 3 or 4 lane highway. We had not bargained for a continuous roadworks. In the centre of Bogota the motorway was blocked and a diversion was in place. Our sat-nav was not aware of the diversion and we took a wrong turning. It took us 30 minutes to find our way back to the autoroute south.
Once back on the autoroute, the road works were continuous. Single file traffic, bumper to bumper in both directions. Often we would come to a complete standstill. It was taking us longer than it took on mountain tracks a few days ago.
At about 14.10 we managed to get clear of the roadworks. As soon as we were able, we pulled over to have tea and a snack and a rest. It is quite tiring travelling in such conditions. Once on the road again, there were one or two more hold ups. One where we were stationary on a very steep hill for a good 10 to 15 minutes.
After this we eventually managed to get up a bit of speed and make some progress. I had hoped to get to Salento today. However, knowing how journeys always seem to take longer than we estimate, I had made an alternative plan for accommodation short of Salento.
Ibague and Camping Santafe Guaduales
Hence we are in Ibague tonight and are still around 100ks short of Salento. We arrived at the camping, or what we presumed was the camp site. Eventually an elderly gentleman wandered over. We asked if we could camp. He said no. You need to pay. We said we want to pay, so he tried to telephone someone. Presumably the campsite owner. No reply, so he said we must camp in a different place and took us there.
Poki is parked on a large concrete pad with the tent on the grass. It is absolutely quiet, apart from the birds and cicadas. There is no sign of anyone. There is a building on the terrace above us which looks like a hostel with hammocks hanging along the balcony. We went up to investigate and found a shower and toilet. Open to the elements, with no door. No one in evidence anywhere.
Salento Tomorrow
Salento is in the heart of the coffee growing area of Colombia. It is also the point of entry to the Cocora Valley, famous for having the world’s tallest palm trees. The Quindio wax palm is Colombia’s national tree and a source of pride among locals. Trees can grow up to 197 feet in height. Salento is apparently quite a touristy town. We will find out.
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